Malta is certainly not the most agreeable place to walk about in on a broiling hot morning, and we ascended so many steep steps, and had so much ground to get over, that I was heartily tired by the time we reached Mr.
My request was met half way, by a very polite offer of the services of one of the juniors to shew me about the place, a proposal which I accepted with many acknowledgments. It appears remarkably sterile, and exhibits little more than low ranges of naked hills, with here and there an insignificant village.
The church of St. John abounds with interesting mementos of the Knights of Malta, and boasts some good tapestries and paintings, and an extraordinary altar-piece of lapis-lazuli, the which, all and sundry may be found described in detail in every guide book to the East, and need no further comment on my part.
My baggage was all stowed in my berth, even to the portmanteau, which is not generally allowed below; and I pounced with much delight upon a clean shirt and other luxuries, which I feared I should have difficulty in obtaining. On touching at Syra, where we fell in with the line of steamers from Constantinople, we took on board a number of[Pg 23] Turkish families, which gave our deck, for they were none of them cabin passengers, a very novel appearance.
The men smoked away the time on their prayer carpets, watching the gambols of their children, and leaving unheeded and unnoticed the poor women, who sat huddled away in one mass as much out of view as possible, and veiled up to the eyes in black silk. At their mid-day meal, however, there was a general commotion, and a great scrambling round a large wooden bowl of mish-mish, into which all dipped their fingers most unceremoniously. In return for a pencil sketch which I made of one of the men, I was invited to partake of his coffee and pipe, and a seat on his mat—though I found the latter involved so very uncomfortable a position, that I could not long enjoy his company.
The coffee and long chibouk were excellent. This was my first introduction to the Modern Egyptians, and when I looked from these half-naked fellows to the shore, and saw the long row-range of sand-hills, and the dismal looking habitations that studded the sides of the harbour, I thought my lines could hardly be said to be cast in pleasant places.
Much time was not, however, given me for reflection, as the dropping of the anchor soon aroused me from my reverie. As we rowed ashore, I found that I had fallen into the hands of Mr. Furner, the very man of whom Portenier had made mention as his locum tenens. I shall never forget the scene that awaited us on landing at the hard.
Camels, donkeys, merchandize of every description, shrieking women, boys, and greasy Arabs, were jumbled together in indescribable confusion; the men fighting and cuffing one another, with the most violent gesticulations, in their anxiety to appropriate the luggage of the newly arrived passengers, in order to convey it to the city. My friend, selecting the two which he considered the best, told me to mount; an injunction which I mechanically obeyed, for I scarcely knew what I was doing, and was querying with myself whether my Ramsgate and Blackheath[Pg 26] experience in donkey-exercise would avail me aught on the present occasion.
Hitherto, I had had little or no opportunity of saying anything respecting my own business, to Furner, who had very naturally taken me for an India-bound passenger, and it was, therefore, with some degree of surprise that he perused Mr.
I remarked on each door that we passed, one or more spots of red wax. I was too hungry on entering to take more than a hasty survey of what I saw, the more especially as sundry tempting looking dishes of novel appearance stood ready on the breakfast table, beside a noble Britannia metal tea-pot, which possessed for me a peculiar charm, after having been debarred for a whole week from a taste of the grateful infusion.
As we refreshed ourselves, I acquainted Furner with the circumstances under which I had arrived in Egypt, detailing to him my engagement with Mr. Waghorn, and receiving in return a description of my future companions in office, with divers hints of a friendly nature as to the position I ought to take up among them.
This proved to be Mr. Raven, the resident partner, fresh from Cairo, to whom I was forthwith introduced. This gentleman was, in the first instance connected with a Mr. Hill, who is since deceased, and has done a great deal towards establishing and improving the communication between Cairo and Suez, having been indeed, in conjunction with his late associate, one, if not the projector of the original Transit Company.
It needed however the enterprizing spirit and untiring perseverance of Mr. Waghorn, before the undertaking could be brought to assume any thing like a flourishing appearance; and now that the energies of both are united in one common object, the Egyptian portion of the Overland journey is as perfect as individuals [2] can make it. From Mr. Raven, who had been apprised by letter of my anticipated arrival, I received orders to await the arrival of the next steamer from Southampton, and conduct the passengers to Cairo, which would, he added, give me a tolerably good insight into the routine of business.
As it wanted[Pg 30] nearly a fortnight to such time, I found I should have ample leisure to make myself acquainted with Alexandria, and to pick up, if possible, some few sentences of Arabic. For this purpose I enlisted into my service the most sagacious of our Dragomen, whom I found a very useful and intelligent fellow. As he possessed a good knowledge of English, he served me as a walking lexicon, and would render for me the more familiar words and sentences, taking great pains to ensure their correct accent.
These are for the most part protected from the sun by a loose boarding over head, devoid of all nails or fastening, so that in blusterous weather, the passer-by is occasionally greeted with a falling plank or stray piece of timber, dislodged by the wind. It requires also considerable caution in threading your way through these narrow passages, as in endeavouring to avoid the heavy tread of[Pg 31] a laden camel, you are possibly knocked down by a donkey, or receive an unwelcome salute in the side or stomach from the bony knee of its rider, who passes quickly onward without a murmur of apology.
The shops which compose these Bazaars, are neither more nor less than large wooden boxes, ranged along a raised platform on either side the way, open only in front, and furnished with shutters and wooden locks, which are secured at night and during the siesta.
Some have a neat sort of railing, and are provided with little seats and stuffed cushions, to which a purchaser to any considerable extent is immediately invited and served with a chibouke. During the puffing that ensues, the buyer and seller are occupied in settling the price of the required commodity, the one offering half as much as he intends to give, and the other asking double what he thinks of taking, so that, at the end may be of half-an-hour, they contrive to meet, and a little cup of thick unsweetened coffee from a neighbouring shop, completes the bargain.
The purchaser is expected to give a trifling present to the servant of the merchant, who helps him on with his slippers, left during the interview, in the street below. On our way, we passed through a dirty Arab village, where we were besieged by a crowd of urchins who begged of and then threw stones at us.
We were compelled to gallop away[Pg 33] as fast as our donkeys would go, to get out of the reach of the heavy missiles with which they occasionally obliged us, though had their numbers been less formidable, it is probable we should have stood our ground and shewed fight. For this sort of reception we were indebted to our Frank costume; for I found a few weeks afterwards, when I had adopted the dress of the country, that I could pass the same spot, and others equally notorious, unmolested.
There is a good view from the base of the former over the Mahmoudieh Canal, which fertilizes in its course a narrow strip of country, and studded as it mostly is with numerous sails, forms a curious feature in the landscape. The pillar stands out in solitary grandeur from a vast plain of ruins and tombs, the site of ancient Alexandria.
Hard by is a little building bearing some resemblance to a temple; this is a refuge for hard-pressed debtors, a strong-hold against all pursuit, and so long as they remain under its friendly shelter, neither law nor remorseless creditor has power to lay hands upon them. Our road to what are said to be the Baths of Cleopatra, lay through a bustling and most dirty street of low Arab dwellings, to a kind of quay or shipping place for corn, near to[Pg 34] which is a group of quaint looking wind-mills with six or eight sails each, the whole in full motion, spinning round with a rushing noise that sorely alarmed our poor donkeys, although it served to prove to us that there was at least no lack of corn in Egypt.
The Baths consist of three or four rocky caves open to the sea, where sheltered from the scorching rays of the sun, the water acquires an enticing temperature, and ripples in and out at a depth of several feet. Close by the Baths, in a sandy cliff, are some excavations of prodigious size, which an old Arab informed us were Catacombs, but as they contain no bones or relics of mortality, and do not even boast of a stray skull or two, he found us somewhat sceptical; the old man conducted us through the outermost apartments, but having no candles, and the evening closing in, we could see but little of their dimensions, so pitching him a few paras we hastened homewards.
A gloomy stillness, however, seems to reign everywhere, for the rumble of wheels is seldom heard save when the Pasha returns from his evening drive, or when the carriages belonging to the rival hotels are brought out of the dusty remises, on the arrival of some steamer. It possesses nevertheless a sort of casino or subscription-room, where for twelve dollars a year, one may see the principal papers of France and Italy, and get a chance rubber of billiards with some passing traveller.
It is probable that the whole night would have been devoted to harmony, had not Furner hit upon the fortunate expedient of gradually inebriating the whole five with repeated doses of strong brandy and water, which proved a novel and most enticing beverage. Their manner of dancing is not easily to be described, inasmuch, as to a stranger, their motions are sometimes wholly unintelligible. There is also much that is unequivocally disgusting, and I never met with any who wished to witness the exhibition a second time.
The scene in the present instance, lasted about an hour and a-half, with a perpetual accompaniment of drums and whistles, and I doubt whether the men themselves were much more weary than we by the time it was over, though they lay without movement on the floor in a state of profuse perspiration. Although the change was very agreeable in point of comfort, it was a long time before I learned to dress myself properly, for the loose trouser is a most unmanageable garment, and the silk scarf which encircles the waist is of so preposterous a length, that it is useless to attempt winding yourself into it, without the aid of a servant.
My early endeavours to arrive at a complete toilet, were much assisted by a young lady from Beyrout, who being on her way from Cairo to Malta, was billeted upon us for a few days at the request of Mr. We found her, at first, extremely shy, and as she could by no means be persuaded to raise her veil, it was fully two days before we saw the light of any part of her countenance, except her eyes, which glowed out from above her long black nose-case, like two coals. By degrees this timidity wore off, and she was induced to take her tea and pipe in our company.
She spoke Arabic and Italian, with a very few words of English, so that it was with considerable difficulty that we contrived to hold any conversation with her. We gathered from her, bit by bit, that she is running away from a French husband, who had once thrown her out of a window, besides attempting her life in other ways. We were consequently obliged to keep her as much out of sight as possible, as she[Pg 39] was in great trepidation lest he should suddenly make his appearance and finish her.
I had at this time an opportunity of witnessing a curious Arab procession, occurring on the day of some yearly festival; though in honour of whom or what, I could by no means ascertain. Our dragoman, Hassan, secured me a good position in one of the narrow streets out of the square, from whence I was able to view it to advantage.
The procession was led by a dozen men bareheaded, who, formed into a circle, were making a rapid succession of low bows towards its centre, chanting at the same time a mournful air; next came a band of native musicians, followed by a numerous body of men bearing long flags, similar to those used in the pilgrimage to Mecca; those who came next upon the scene were a score or more of half-naked fellows, all foaming and perspiring with excessive exertion, whose sole object seemed to be the endeavour to pull each other to the ground, by means of the little top-knot of hair on the crown of the head; a miscellaneous and unruly crowd of men and boys brought up the rear, whose incessant thumping of little copper drums, mixing with the shouting and doleful chant of those who had preceded them, produced as discordant a variety of noises as I ever remember to have heard.
The[Pg 40] women took no part in the procession, saving as lookers on, testifying their appreciation and enjoyment of the extraordinary display, by a loud gobbling noise like a chorus of frightened turkey cocks—a noise I believe which none but an Arab woman can produce;—as the exhibitors moved along, they as well as the bystanders were plentifully besprinkled with water of roses and lavender, which we were given to understand was a part of the performance.
So plentiful indeed did Furner and I find this novel species of baptism, that, being unprovided with umbrellas, we were glad to beat a precipitate retreat. We were enjoying our after-dinner pipe in the verandah, when Hassan announced her near approach, so, making all speed to the shore, Furner and I rowed off to meet her. On gaining the deck, we found about two dozen passengers for the Overland, with a prodigious quantity of baggage piled up in one large heap, from which each was endeavouring to release his own particular property.
The mail consisted of a number of square tin-boxes, which, when hauled on deck, it was my duty to see shifted into a barge alongside, destined to convey[Pg 41] them to the mouth of the Mahmoudieh Canal, observing at the same time, that each individual case was duly ticked off upon the bill of lading. The pushing and scrambling for donkeys, on such occasions, is sometimes highly amusing, and it is long ere the cavalcade is in motion.
When there is no moon, the scene is lighted up by crackling pots of burning charcoal, raised aloft on poles, shedding a lurid light. The road to the Canal involves the passing of[Pg 42] two or three gates, strongly fortified, having lofty tunnel-like arches, and paved with round stones. The pattering of hoofs as the motley train rushes through, awakens the lazy sentinel, who presents arms mechanically to those of the flaring pots, and, as the sound again dies away in the deep sandy road, once more relapses into slumber.
The choice of seats, for berths there were none, was of course given to the ladies, the rest accommodating themselves where best they might. Four strong horses, mounted by as many Arab riders, were attached to the one long iron boat, which contained us all, and the word having been given to cast loose, we bid a hasty adieu to our friends on shore, and by a little after midnight, found ourselves in motion.
Our crew consisted of a fat Maltese pilot, two or three Arabs, and a cook, named Antonio, and it was gratifying to remark, that the latter had not forgotten several well-stored cafasses, or provision-baskets, with apparatus for making tea and coffee, and a large brazier of ignited charcoal for heating his kettles. The dew was falling like rain, soaking every thing that[Pg 43] was exposed to it, but this did not deter some of our party from throwing themselves at full length upon the roof, where, snugly shrouded in their cloaks, they ran a much better chance of getting a little rest, than when squeezed into a sitting posture below.
I ran on deck immediately, and found, as soon as I could collect my scattered senses, that our precious Maltese captain had run us into the bank, having quietly followed the example of those around him, by dropping to sleep at his tiller. Fortunately for the horses, the rope had parted with the sudden check, or they would have been pulled into the Canal, which I afterwards found was not an uncommon occurrence. After a little delay, we were soon making way again at an average pace of seven or eight miles an hour, and met with no farther mishap before day-break.
We were[Pg 44] amused in the morning by the uncouth gambols of the buffaloes, who were taking their early bath in the shallow water at the sides of the Canal. Some of them seemed so accustomed to the passing of our rope, which often gives them an unpleasant rap over the horns, and sometimes completely upsets them, that they would duck under water at the approach of the horses, and rise again as soon as we had shot past.
The water in the Mahmoudieh Canal being at this season of the year very low, and the steep muddy banks extremely slippery, it was no easy matter to disembark all the heavy luggage belonging to our passengers. The Arabs, however, are excellent porters, and will carry enormous loads; so much so, that I was surprised at the apparent facility with which the shifting of so great a quantity of material was accomplished.
One of Mr. It is a town of considerable trade, and the quays are covered with timber and bales of merchandize. Pigs by the thousand run about in all directions, whilst the[Pg 46] path from the canal-boat to the steamer is through a perfect Slough of Despond.
On this occasion, we did not muster much more than half that number, and therefore found ample accommodation. A long table on the after-part of the deck, was lined on either side with my voracious countrymen, and although Antonio tried hard to obtain me a corner seat, his efforts were unavailing,[Pg 47] and instead of being greeted, as I had fondly anticipated, with an invitation to do as the rest, a long-whiskered officer with his mouth full of chicken, ordered me to change his plate, very naturally mistaking me for one of the Arab attendants.
I obeyed the order at once, but fearing that if I staid at the table, I might be subjected to a renewal of these unceremonious commands, and thus establish a bad precedent, I beat a retreat towards the caboose, and made friends with the head engineer, who was in the act of sitting down to a steaming mess of savoury stew, laid out upon the head of a cask, with a garnish of sparkling pale ale. On the paddle-box above us, sat the old Reis or pilot, gazing at us with extreme complacency, whilst waiting for his turn at the dish.
There he sits by day and by night, always at his post, and ever wakeful, giving an occasional sign to the Arab at the helm. As night came on, our little deck was gradually deserted, very few of the passengers choosing to encounter a wetting from the dew which was now descending almost as heavily as rain.
I gave one look below to see if there was a chance of making my bed on or under some table or other, but every available place was occupied, and I was forced to throw myself upon the deck, rolled up in a thick Bernous cloak, which defended me from both dew and mosquitoes, and had it not been for one of the boatmen, who very unceremoniously walked on my leg, I should have slept undisturbed until daybreak.
A grim-looking Maltese waiter ushered me into the presence of Mr. Raven, who was busy writing in his office, a little sort of sanctum on the first-floor, which I shall describe at length hereafter. I then gave him a detailed account of our journey so far, and handed him a parcel of letters and a passenger list, which I had brought with me from Alexandria. Giving a hasty glance around, I made choice of a tempting looking chicken, just fresh from the spit, with which I made off, without apology, although I believe very greatly to the astonishment of the cooks, who made des grands yeux at my impudence.
On my return to Mr. On a divan, under the window, was seated a portly looking gentleman, [5] in a Turkish dress, very intently conning over the last batch of Galignani, and smoking a Manilla, whilst one or two of the passengers who had escaped from the dinner-table, were changing English money into nine-piastre pieces, and asking innumerable questions. Motioning me to a seat at a desk alongside him, and at the same time introducing me to the gentleman upon the sofa, Raven supplied me with a cheroot and a bottle of pale ale, and handed me a rough list of the transit accounts to be put into proper form, before collecting the monies.
The taking of the money was not so readily accomplished, as I had some little difficulty in making people understand how the charge for luggage was regulated. The hire of a camel to cross the desert is about twelve shillings, and his load seldom or never more than two packages; one on each side.
A lady, therefore, with a heavy portmanteau and two large paper bandboxes, might be called upon to pay a camel and a half, whilst her husband, with two enormous and weighty bullock trunks, would probably pay but for one camel. A hat-box and writing-desk have been assessed at half a camel, for the Bedouins have but little idea of properly balancing a load; and I have frequently seen a heavy iron-bound trunk, counterpoised by a huge, but light, paper bonnet-box, or a colossal carpet-bag and a bird-cage, in ludicrous contraposition.
The loading takes place in a spacious court-yard at the back of the hotel, the camels kneeling to receive their burdens, which are secured in rude net-work bags, and the noise and confusion at such times is almost distracting. The animals are very touchy, and manifest their displeasure by a child-like groan, which it is almost distressing to hear.
The[Pg 53] motion of their heads too requires constant watching, as they turn round to bite and snap at the slightest provocation, and seem to have a peculiar dislike to the Frank dress, which attracts them more than the blue smocks of the Bedouin. The distribution of the loads is superintended by different servants of the company from every quarter of the globe; and as each tries to make himself heard amid the general din, there is a perfect Babel of tongues.
With all this, just under the open window of the little room in which we were sitting, I found my labour in the way of accounts to progress but slowly; and it was no little relief to me, when the hubbub was exchanged for a state of comparative quiet, produced by the departure of the camels with the baggage, which generally precedes the rest of the caravan.
By five in the afternoon, everything was reported in readiness for a start, but as I had occasion to wait for some papers entrusted to me by Raven, I was almost the last who reached the place of departure. In a wide part of an adjacent street, I found five or six covered carts with two wheels, and four stout horses attached to each; these are capable of holding four persons comfortably, and as they are well balanced, and run on enormously large wheels, their[Pg 54] motion is both easy and agreeable.
Each passenger has his particular seat assigned him before starting, so that there is no confusion or scrambling for places, care being also taken not to separate the members of one family more than can be avoided; children and ladies are generally confided to the care of the most experienced English drivers, while the gentlemen are handed over to the tender mercies of some Maltese, or native knight of the whip, if the caravan be so large as to put all the carriages in requisition.
On looking over the list, I found myself booked with two missionaries and a reverend divine; a fact which manifested a kindly interest in my welfare on the part of Mr. Raven, who pushed in after me a couple of black bottles, and gave the order to go forward. Whisking round the Esbikier, we passed the outer gate and suburbs, and then after a jolting drive of near a mile through narrow lanes, bordered by hedge-rows of prickly pear and luxuriant aloes, emerged on to the smooth sand of the desert; half a mile on, are two curious looking erections of brick, called the Tombs of the Sheiks, and these once out of sight, there is nought to greet the eye but a vast expanse of sand, enclosed at the horizon on either side within a low range of sand hills, which extend almost without interruption the entire way to Suez.
The[Pg 55] route of the caravan is more direct than that taken by the Israelites formerly, which is more to the southward, almost without wells, and hilly, and with one exception, where it crosses a ridge of rock, runs due East and West in a straight line. For the convenience of passengers to and from India, places of refuge or Stations, have been erected at uniform distances, where man and beast may find refreshment, and shelter from the scorching sun. Those travelling through the agency of Messrs.
Wells there[Pg 56] are none, saving one of dirty brackish water near Suez, and this is more often dry than not. At the Stations, however, there is always an abundant supply of good water, kept cool under ground in iron tanks, and brought from the Nile in skins at a great expense; and should this by any untoward chance be wanting, the traveller may slake his thirst with the best of ale or beer at a shilling the bottle.
I am aware that there are many who have found fault with the apparently high charge made for the transit between Cairo and Suez; but these may not have sufficiently considered the great trouble and expense necessarily incurred in providing due accommodation.
They have scarcely any idea of the number of skins of water required to fill one tank, nor, perhaps, do they reflect, while filling out or polishing their own skins, and using as much of the precious fluid as they can desire, that the poor camel or donkey which brought it forty weary miles from the Nile, returns all the way back again, without having wetted its lips more than once, if even so much as that. Then again, should a goat-skin[Pg 57] spring a leak, or burst while on the road, which not unfrequently happens, what is to recompense the poor Bedouin, who has tramped the whole way on foot, and whose donkey, on which he solely relies for a livelihood, is the bearer of but one skin of water at a time.
I never found any one returning, make any unreasonable objections of this kind. But to return to our caravan, which we left on the margin of the desert. Our rate of travelling was about five miles in the hour, for the track, which in some places, lay over a smooth and tolerably hard gravel, was at others exchanged for a loose sand, in which our wheels became buried to the depth of a foot or more, causing a deal of labour to our horses.
At such times, our Seis, or running-footman, one of whom accompanies each carriage, would apply his shoulder to the wheel and help us over the soft spot, whilst on occasions we found it necessary altogether to alight, and unite our efforts. We changed horses at No. During the meal, I was beckoned out of the room by the head driver, Mr.
Hill, [8] to debate as to the length of time we should allow for resting. As there was a full change of horses for each carriage, I considered it would be as well to make the most of the cool night air, and secure a long halt the next day at the centre Station, and our passengers concurring in this idea, we were soon again en route.
This, with his pipe, and a drink of water, forms his only food. In the morning, in his scriptural little mill of two flat stones, he grinds sufficient flour to last him through the day, tasting nought else until his return to the city, which takes place when the transit season is over. Early on the following morning, we came in sight of No.
This is a resting-place of much more pretensions than the others, having an upper-story, with a ricketty flight of stone-steps, and a tolerably spacious court-yard below, where, at the time of our arrival, a queer-looking sheep, and some lean shrivelled fowls were sniffing and pecking about, and scraping up their last earthly meal, whilst a turkey-cock, perched on an empty cafass or hamper, was dismally sounding his death-rattle. The live stock, and eatables of all sorts are brought from Cairo in sufficient quantity to supply the larders of all the Stations for several weeks, but occasionally, when the number of passengers to and fro is very large, a sort of famine takes place, and we have been compelled to subsist for a time upon dates and other dried fruits, of which there is always a good store; the change of diet proving rather agreeable than otherwise.
Chickens, very lean and tough, and roasted to dryness, are a standing dish in Egypt, and these with the larger sorts of fowl, and plenty of curries and Irish-stew, form the[Pg 61] principal fare of the desert. On arriving at No. Breakfast over, I spread my carpet on the top of a long wooden sideboard, and soon fell fast asleep—my example being followed by the others who disposed themselves to rest, some in the bed-rooms, and others on the divans which extend round three sides of the room.
At the approach of evening, the horses were again attached to their respective carts or vans, and after some little jibbing on the part of the poor animals, who were evidently averse to moving, we were again upon the desert. The road near the centre Station is hard and gravelly, and affords most easy travelling for the first mile or two. If the wind is stirring, it is quite as well to take the weather-side of this hanging mass of old clothes, for as there are few devotees who care to part with anything really serviceable, the breezes which come athwart the tree are by no means of the most balmy.
About a quarter of a mile to the southward of this pestilential landmark, is a pit in the sand, of enormous[Pg 63] dimensions, excavated by the French in the vain hope of obtaining water. Two or three of us went so far just to gratify our curiosity, but were obliged to use extreme caution in approaching the edge of the pit. Its diameter is so great that the well, although one hundred and fifty feet deep, appears rather shallow than otherwise, and the section of the ground exhibits a succession of layers of fine sand and gravel, but without the least appearance of water.
Two or three dead animals, for which the well had served as a pitfall, lay at the bottom. The road to No. Should a camel drop through exhaustion, and there be no means at hand of relieving it, the Bedouin removes its load, which is distributed among the others, and the poor beast is left to die, for to shorten its miseries by a coup de grace, would be at variance with the law of Mahomet.
This is the more to be regretted as these animals are peculiarly tenacious of life, and when left in this manner, are sure to fall a prey to the jackal and vulture, who feast[Pg 64] upon the body before life is extinct. A sly bullet from my carbine has often terminated the agonies of such as I have found thus abandoned in my frequent journeys, when I could use it without fear of detection, for the Arabs will not lightly pass over an infringement of their law in this particular; and as they have, if so inclined, the power of causing us much trouble, I have invariably sought to be on the best terms with them.
Passing the next Station, a mere stable, and still keeping between the two lines of hills, which increase in height as you approach Suez, we came suddenly upon No. This Station is the counterpart of No. Under her good care we remained several hours, doing ample justice to a plentiful supper, and refreshing ourselves with a comfortable nap. It was therefore broad daylight when we reached the well of brackish water, and came in sight of the walls of Suez, a desolate and miserable town, where there is no water, save that of the Red Sea, and such as is afforded by a casual shower, and not the most remote appearance of vegetation in any[Pg 65] shape.
The inhabitants, who appear to live exclusively upon fish, and dried fruits from the interior, consist principally of Jewish merchants and small Arab traders, for there is considerable traffic between Suez and the shores of the Red Sea, especially with Aden and Missouah, which latter, is the chief port of Abyssinia. The Indian steamers come up to within three or four miles of the town, and obtain a tolerably safe anchorage outside a perilous bar, which entirely prevents any nearer approach for vessels drawing more than five feet of water.
Communication is effected, and merchandize shipped, by means of small lateen-rigged boats, which, if the wind be contrary, are also managed by oars; but in a high sea, I have sometimes been as long as six hours in getting out to the steamer. Two hundred yards or so nearer the gate, stands the old hotel, used only on extraordinary occasions, or when the steamer, not true to her time, causes a meeting at Suez between the India-bound passengers and those returning homewards.
The little square before the door was filled as we drove up, with the baggage camels,[Pg 66] which having disposed of their burdens in various heaps upon the ground, were now quietly chewing the cud, and resting themselves after their weary march, while their drivers were lolling near, either shrouded in their bernous cloaks and fast asleep, or lazily getting their morning meal.
Portmanteaus, bullock-trunks, sword-cases, and three-cornered hat-boxes, with all the innumerable etceteras in the way of baggage, comprising an Indian outfit, lay scattered about in wild confusion, and it required no little skill on the part of our drivers to manage a four-in-hand through such a sea of valuables.
Fortunately for myself, the boxes containing the mails lay all in one heap close to the door of the hotel, so that my task of counting and checking them was more easily accomplished than I had anticipated. Consigning them, therefore, into the hands of Mr. I found this by no means an unpleasant part of my duty, for as there was a delightful breeze blowing, and the weather of the finest, the sail down the arm of the gulf into the open water, was extremely pleasant. We therefore jogged along quietly enough, and for the first few stages, I found an amusing companion in my driver, a countryman of my own, who, having been long resident in Egypt, was able to afford me a good deal of information.
He was, however, no follower of Father Mathew, and falling into the popular error that brandy is the best and safest restorative in a hot climate, he indulged in such repeated pulls at the black bottle, that on leaving No. Resting during the hottest part of the day, we reached Cairo at the close of the second afternoon, where having consigned my travelling companions to the attentions of the head waiter, I paid my respects to Mr.
Raven, whom I found entertaining a large party of his English friends, resident in Egypt. Pleading my travel-worn and dusty condition, for he was leading me in to present me to the ladies, as a late arrival from England, I begged him to direct me to some good bath, where I could indulge in the luxuries of soap and hot water.
I had scarcely recovered my scattered senses, when a Frank tailor, who had seen the transaction, and evidently pitied my dilemma, emerged from his little shop, and explained to me that the pendant rag was exhibited as a sign, to show that the bath was at such times in the occupation of the ladies, and that in fact the hareem of some great man had but a short time before engaged the establishment.
My forcible ejection was, therefore, no longer a matter of surprise, the only wonder being, that I had escaped so cheaply from the hands of the dusky Cerberus on guard. My new friend, the tailor, now directed me to another bath at a little distance off, where I had no difficulty in effecting an entrance, as this time, and indeed always afterwards, I took especial care to look out for the rag!
Although the Turkish bath has been so often described, as to have rendered its peculiarities familiar, I shall scarcely feel satisfied to give a casual glance only at this most gratifying of luxuries, and shall, therefore, simply relate my own experience, without venturing to hope that I may furnish anything very new upon the subject. Hill, before alluded to. Entering a large vaulted chamber of stone, and delivering up my watch and valuables to a person appointed to receive them, a precautionary measure against loss, I was led by an obsequious and smiling Arab to one of the numerous little rooms which opened out of it, and shewn to a queer-looking bed upon the floor, which I forthwith appropriated, and casting my clothes thereon, they were rolled up in a bundle by my attendant, and deposited at the head.
On parting with my last garment, I was enveloped in a gaudy carpet, which came up under my arms, and being drawn together tight at the back, was secured by a pin. A flowing-white turban, of the finest muslin, was now bound round my head, and thus accoutred, my feet were thrust into the thongs of a pair of wooden sandals, and I was led across the outer apartment into one of much larger dimensions,[Pg 71] where, round a fountain of hot water which squirted up in the centre, were seated some dozen or more of naked Arabs, sousing and splashing each other like a lot of dolphins.
The atmosphere of this chamber was of such a temperature, as to make me feel rather uneasy on first entering it, but this feeling soon passed off, and my guide, seeing that I was all right again, then conducted me into a little hole of a place, quite filled with dense steam, where I literally gasped for breath.
Here I was committed to the tender mercies of a black bearded fellow, all reeking with perspiration, who, forcing me down on a narrow stone slab, where I lay gasping on my back, proceeded to curry me over with a hard sort of fibrous brush, like the outer husk of a cocoa-nut. Having pretty well tired himself, and reduced the whole superficies of my skin to a flaming red colour, he next made a fine bowl of suds with tow and yellow soap, and lathered over[Pg 72] my whole person, filling my eyes and ears also, and completely preventing any attempt at expostulation, by the prospect of a plentiful gulp of the unsavoury compound, if I dared to open my mouth.
Having concluded this portion of the ceremony, my Arab seized me by the nape of the neck, and settled me into a sitting posture; then from a fountain which gushed from the wall, he dipped up in a brass basin about half-a-gallon of scalding water, which he deliberately poured over my head. This I found to be too much of a good thing, and was taxing me beyond my powers of endurance, so seizing the brass pan, I refused to submit to any more of the scalding baptism, unless he could lower the temperature of the fountain.
This was easily managed, as there was both a cold and a hot-water tap, and I could qualify the water to my liking. At this stage of the bath, a man, whose insignia bespoke him a barber, thrust his head in at the door-way, and inquired if I wanted shaving, but being answered in the negative, made way for a second individual, who proved to be the chiropodist in ordinary to the establishment.
He, in like manner, took his departure, evidently astonished at finding nothing to operate upon. My ablutions were now finished, and my first attendant,[Pg 73] bringing dry cloths and a clean turban, re-conducted me to the couch, where, covering me over with a light blanket, he left me to the enjoyment of a pipe of fragrant gibelee and a cup of coffee, administered by another of the numerous servitors.
This is probably the most agreeable part of the whole proceeding, for the feelings which take possession, both of mind and body, are indescribably pleasurable. One seems to be inoculated with the genuine elixir of life, and the limbs feel restored to the elasticity of early youth, whilst the mind appears for the moment to be divested of all care and solicitude. In the present instance, however, this enviable state of things was not suffered to be of long duration, for I was speedily recalled to a full sense of my position, by the pertinacious corn-cutter, who, under cover of my closed eye-lids, was scraping away at my heels with a piece of pumice-stone, and tickling me back into consciousness.
Having previously declined his services, I thought it no harm to repeat my disinclination for them, by a well-directed kick, which sent him rolling. But my hopes of enjoying the pipe and coffee were destined to be signally defeated, for no sooner had I got rid of my Egyptian Eisenberg, than another tormentor made his appearance. As I lay, I was compelled[Pg 74] to submit to the cracking of all my joints; my head was forced back farther than I ever fancied it would go, and then twisted both ways round, and again downwards: every finger and toe was pulled at and cracked, and, finally, the breath was nearly squeezed out of my body, by a convulsive jerk on the part of my executioner, who had encircled me with his two arms.
I was then laid down again, and a small mirror being handed me, was suffered to invest myself once more in my own clothes, from which I must have been absent more than two hours. The price of the Arab bath varies considerably, the more so, that each individual operator expects a fee, a practice which sometimes causes a deal of trouble and confusion. I paid generally ten piastres, about two shillings, to the door-keeper for distribution, and with this sum I found them abundantly satisfied. A Frank, however, is expected to pay better than a native, who would never think of giving more than three or four piastres.
Travellers very often leave things behind them, in the hurry and confusion of packing, and thus it happened that a heterogeneous collection of articles from all parts of the globe, fell into the hands of Raven, who, if he failed to identify them, would deposit them carefully away, in the hope that some day or other, the owner might return and claim his property. It more often happened, however, that these stray properties were never afterwards inquired for,[Pg 76] and many is the goodly cloak and well-stuffed carpet-bag, with now and then a watch or a snuff-box, which has thus found a protector.
The doctor has considerable practice amongst the townsfolk and Frank residents, who are pretty sure to call him in on any emergency; but I fancy, that one passing windfall, in the shape of an English traveller, or an invalid officer on leave from India, suits the book of the worthy Hakeem, better than a whole hospital of sick Mahometans.
When not occupied by his Esculapian duties, the doctor devotes a part of his time to the formation of a cabinet of Egyptian antiquities, and he is so well known to the Arabs as a collector of rarities, that relics of all descriptions find their way to him, the bearer being generally rewarded according to the outward appearance of the article, by a sum often strangely disproportionate to its real value. Among other objects of great interest, is a ring of solid virgin gold of great weight, which from its hieroglyph, is supposed to have belonged to one of the Pharaohs.
By this, the doctor[Pg 77] deservedly sets great store, and has repeatedly refused to part with it, although a very high price has been offered. Mummy ornaments of all descriptions, with holy beetles and scaribei, form a prominent portion of the collection, which is visited by most travellers as one of the sights of Cairo.
During my first sojourn in the capital, I was naturally anxious to get to the Pyramids, and satisfy the burning curiosity I had always felt to see these extraordinary monuments. I was dissuaded, however, from paying them an immediate visit, by a promise on the part of Mr.
Raven, to get up and personally conduct an expedition to explore them at leisure, and as he had assisted Colonel Vyse in opening those of Ghizeh, which had been partially explored by Belzoni, and then once more closed, I was the more ready to submit to this arrangement and profit by his experience. The rising of the Nile too, which was now rapidly filling, was an obstacle, inasmuch as the distance from Cairo to the first Pyramids is but five miles, by the ordinary route when the water is off the plain, whilst at the time of the inundation, it is twenty miles or more, and the road rendered difficult and dangerous.
In these little excursions, I was accompanied by a gentleman named Bell, to whom I was introduced by Dr. He had but just returned from a long journey into Abyssinia and the Galla country, where he had met with much hardship and adventure. Bell, who, at that moment happened to have nothing particular to do, and found time hanging heavily upon his hands, volunteered his services, which were forthwith accepted.
Taking with him a sufficient escort, he disembarked at Missouah, and penetrated as far southward as the spot where the Colonel died, finding the account, in the main, perfectly correct, and satisfying his relatives that he had not met with a violent death. By one chief he was[Pg 79] detained as a sort of prisoner, and was not allowed to proceed on his journey until he contrived to purchase his liberty by some well-displayed feats of arms, which completely won over the heart of the old king.
On one occasion, he was called upon to play! From this moment, our friend stood high in the favour of the Court, and attended the king on several excursions against a neighbouring tribe, with whom he was then at war. Farther south, he was attacked by robbers, who plundered him of everything save his arms, and left him for dead upon the ground, with a lance through his head, which entering the nose, came out at the back of the neck, and was eventually withdrawn without doing much injury.
A few months subsequently, he again set out for Abyssinia in company with two other gentlemen,[Pg 81] with the intention of reaching the source of the White Nile, by which name the main stream is distinguished. It was a totally different branch which Bruce traced to its rise, and the true position of the sources of the Nile still appears to be unauthenticated. It remains to be seen what success has attended their efforts. At the end of the month I accompanied Mr.
Raven to Alexandria in one of his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally applied. Having sunk it under water for a day or two, and cleansed it as much as possible of fleas and cockroaches, we shipped a goodly cafass of provisions, and taking with us an Arab cook, embarked at nightfall.
The wind was unfortunately against us, obliging our crew to use their oars, and very much retarding our progress. Over our heads, suspended from the roof, swung a monstrous stable-lantern, shedding a dim yellow light, just sufficient to show us the way to our mouths, for to read or talk were equally impossible, owing to the unceasing song of the Arab boatmen, who accompany themselves as they row, with a rude melody, by no means grateful to English ears.
All we could do, was to recline at our ease, and puff away at our chibouques, until the heavy dew, which wetted everything, as effectually as if we had been exposed to a drizzling rain, drove us to our couches. I awoke several times during the night, and emerging from the cabin, found every one but myself fast asleep, the vessel gliding noiselessly down the stream.
Even the head of the old Reis, who was perched upon the roof of the cabin, had dropped down upon his chest, and saving the ripple of the water under our bows, and the measured snore of some of our party, no sound was to be heard, and we moved imperceptibly onwards in perfect stillness. I had no heart to[Pg 84] arouse any of the poor tired Arabs from their stolen slumbers, the more especially, as I knew the danger of running aground to be but slight; so once more seeking my hard bed, and covering myself completely in my cloak, I bid defiance to musquitoes and cockroaches, and was soon deep in pleasant dreams of home.
The two next days were passed in our boat, the monotony of the voyage being varied by occasional runs on shore, when we moored at some village or other, to take in a fresh supply of milk or vegetables. At other times, where the high banks afforded good walking, we indulged in a little shooting, for doves and small birds were very plentiful, and afforded excellent eating. As the third night closed in, a light breeze sprung up, which aided us considerably in our progress, and inspired our tired crew with fresh energy.
As we made our preparations for turning in, I remarked that Raven drew from his pocket a huge knife, which, after a careful inspection, he deposited with great gravity under his pillow, though whether as a precaution against intrusion, or any act of foul play on the part of our boatmen, I did not inquire, merely viewing such unwonted preparation with considerable curiosity.
I had not been long asleep, when I found myself suddenly[Pg 85] rolled from my sofa on to the floor, our stable-lantern and dining-table bearing me company; and on opening my eyes, I could just catch a glimpse of Raven escaping from the door-way with his big knife, whilst the violent vociferations of the Arabs on deck, mingled with a confused rushing sound of both wind and water, and the alarming lurch of the vessel, left me in some doubt as to whether I was murdered or drowning.
A moment more and tranquillity was restored; the boat righted, and I found my legs. Emerging from the cabin, I learnt that a sudden puff of wind had caught our huge lateen sail, which, in true Arab fashion, had been made fast to a ring in the deck, whilst the lazy sailor, who ought to have held it, was enjoying a comfortable nap. Had it not been for the promptitude displayed by Raven, who had severed the rope with the trusty knife from under his pillow, it is more than probable that he would have got a sound ducking, and I have served as a bonne bouche for some stray crocodile; for the Nile boatmen, who are amphibious, and look upon an unexpected dip rather as a treat than otherwise, have the unpleasant habit of extending assistance only to those in supreme authority.
Thus, while they would have rescued Mr. Raven, I might have bubbled away my last breath in the cabin, or have[Pg 86] floated down the stream, entirely unheeded and uncared for. Half-an-hour was passed here in preparing one of the iron track-boats to convey us down the Canal to Alexandria, where we arrived about three in the afternoon, and just in time for me to put off in a little boat to meet one of the French steamers, which was visible in the offing.
This is doubtless all very fair, and as competition generally[Pg 87] benefits the public, we shall watch with interest the progress of our rivals. Raven quitted us again the next day to return to Cairo, taking with him Mrs. Hill and her little daughter, the widow and child of his late partner, who had been sojourning some time in Alexandria.
Raven gave me instructions, upon this occasion, to look after and see to the safe conduct of the Marquis of ——, the newly appointed Governor of Madras, who is expected by the next steamer from England, and enjoined me to pay particular attention to the comfort of his lordship during the voyage to Cairo, and to place at his disposal the whole of one of our track-boats, that he may be delayed as little as possible.
Having received my orders, I returned to the Okella with the agreeable prospect before me of a few days quiet, prior to the arrival of the next mail. I shall spare the reader a detail of my every-day life at Alexandria, for my time when not taken up by office-duties, or the study of Arabic, in which I was now making some[Pg 88] progress, was chiefly occupied in strolling through the bazaars, or in extended rambles with Furner on donkey-back, in search of the picturesque.
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I have since wondered how I ever got over it.
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| Tour de france stage 13 betting preview | After a little delay, we were soon cassandro way again at an average pace of seven or eight miles an hour, and met with no farther mishap before day-break. Andrea passed afterwards close to the Island of Elba, reaching the Bay of Naples on the twenty-fifth, or in three days and two nights from Marseilles, including our protracted stoppages. The custom-house was soon passed, for, contrary to my expectation, Read more had nothing to pay. He was, however, no follower of Father Mathew, and falling into the popular error that brandy is the best and safest restorative in a hot climate, he indulged in such repeated pulls at the black bottle, that on leaving No. The for retirement is expected to give a trifling present to the servant of the merchant, who helps him on with his slippers, left during the interview, in the investing below. |
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| Best way to invest 1000 dollars in cryptocurrency | We reached Chalons sur Soane at last, though only just in time for the steamer, which was on the point of starting as[Pg 10] we drove on to the quay. Those travelling through the agency of Messrs. A flowing-white turban, of the finest muslin, was now bound round my head, and thus click, my feet were thrust into the thongs of a pair of wooden sandals, and I was led across the outer apartment into one of much larger dimensions,[Pg 71] where, round a fountain of hot water which squirted up in the centre, were seated some dozen or more of naked Arabs, sousing and splashing each other like a lot of dolphins. A half-resuscitated English gentleman lay gasping on the bank, having been rescued by one of the boatmen, who had dived under to his assistance. All her attendants were more or less shrouded in veils, most of them weighed down with rows andrea cassandro investing for retirement gold twenty-piastre pieces, by way of fringe. |
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